I have a etrex vista hcx, and that works fine in umass mode and in usb data mode using gpsbabel. Newer units seem to be umass-only and just store data in the filesystem. the edge report from Luke certainly looks that way. I suspect Geert's problem is either that we need a special USB driver or there's some timing detail that either we get wrong or that garmin demands beyond-spec behavior about. But he would have noticed if linux had a special driver...
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