Subject: Re: US vs European PS requirements.
To: Brian D Chase <bdc@world.std.com>
From: Arno Griffioen <arno@usn.nl>
List: port-vax
Date: 05/31/1998 12:23:17
> Most PC power supplies I've seen are switch selectable to operate at
> either 110/120VAC or 220/240VAC.  Is this also the case with the
> VAXstations? 

I doubt it's an auto-ranging PSU. The 'switch' option was mostly
used in that time. Or not.. But read on..

> different input voltages.  Would the PS need to be replaced, or is the
> thing just smart about how it handles the different input voltages?

I have imported some stuff from the USA to Europe and so far I have
done sveral things..

For PSU's without switches and with a label that doesn't state 
110V-220V as the input range there are three options:

One:
Take the 'easy' way out and put a 220->110 transformer in front of 
the PSU. Does use some extra juice and can get kinda 'heavy'

Next are some options if you don't have a problem with a soldering-iron..

Two:
Open up the PSU and take out the PCB and other stuff. Look at the input 
on the PCB. A lot of PSU's were actually designed (and built) to run on 
both voltages, but were delivered in a 'preset' mode. 

Often there is another (un-connected) power-input. Sometimes even with
220V printed on the silk-screen. This is usually connected to a 
different part of a (small) transformer that's in the PSU.

Re-wiring the 110V to the 220V input and then testing it with a 'safe'
load (I often use a car headlight bulb of 50 or so watts) and a 
voltage-meter to see if everyting checks out.

Three:
Time for some 'creative' work..

If the PSU is really only 110V and you don't want an extra 220->110
transformer, then you need to get a different PSU locally which can produce
the same output voltages (or more) and at least the same watts.

Most 'modern' PSU's are much smaller that the ones used a few years
back. So use the 'insides' of the new PSU replace the old one. Old
PCB's can be used to make it fit in the old casing.

Lots of soldering to get all the right wires+connectors attached again 
(just remove from the old PCB and re-solder on the new PCB), but
in the end you have a 'brand new' 220/240V PSU in your equipment..

Don't worry about the 50/60Hz difference. Unless you are runnning 
some _serious_ heavy metal that uses the power-frequency to synchronize
drives/spindles or clocks it doesn't matter. The PSU just munges
it all to DC, so no frequecy there anymore..

Hope this helps a bit..

								Bye Arno.

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