Any suggestions how to get this working? I thought we had CODA support, too,
  but userland support for it seems to have vanished off the planet, so I think
  I'm stuck with nfs somehow.

Userland coda works fine, it's just not up to date in pkgsrc.  Install
lwp, rvm, rpc2 from pkgsrc, and then build/install coda from the
project's sources.

It does caching on the client, so will be easier on your network.
But, it's a bit flaky with disconnected writes at times, so if you
don't think playing with coda is fun, it may not be for you.  I've
been using it for 6 or 7 years and keep real files I care about in it
- but not my homedir.

But, if your network is so flaky that NFS over TCP doesn't work,
you're almost certainly going to have trouble with coda too, which
uses RPC2 (over UDP) which is less robust.  Perhaps try turning down
the MTU, or seeing if you can figure out what's going on.

I've heard of a WRT54GS that repeatedly munges packets with certain
patterns.  So perhaps try transport-mode IPsec.



-- 
        Greg Troxel <gdt@ir.bbn.com>